Morocco mama mania- began with motorcyclmamamania@blogspot.com

We only saw one person killed on the way from the airport- a motorcycle accident. The funny thing was that our cab stopped for gas on the way into town, and we got to the hotel at the same time, which meant our cab was going even faster! We later learned that it is against the law to have more than 3 people in a cab- and cabs often stop to pick up additional people if they start with only one or two passengers. Hotel le doge was built in 1930 and stays true to its Art Deco style. Each room is named after a different famous person from the period and is decorated differently. We had the Lartique (photographer) and xx  (painter) rooms. We were offered a welcome drink of mint tea - which was incredibly delicious- it might be described as hot simple syrup with mint. After a quick face wash we set out to explore before it became dark. How is it possible that a Relais&Chateau hotel would not have a map of the city. One again saved by the Lonely Planet guide. We walked about 10 minutes before the first major fight...and one adventurer retreated to the hotel for solitude. In the interim we were approached by many people (all men) who asked where we were from- all saying things like God bless America" and have a good trip. We entered the Medina which was not particularly interesting- mostly crap from china (or maybe India or Vietnam) but it was good to "get our feet wet" in the culture in terms of being comfortable with the people in general and the merchants trying to sell us things. Needless to say, some of us were more at ease with the scene than others.  Later that night we discussed some "rules" for the trip such a no jewelry and purses. I of course immediately broke one of the suggested rules about eating  street food. I had noticed an old man approach the square with a tray of what turned out to be macaroons. I attempted to buy one- as he kept filling a small bag with no heed to my words of "arret- ca suffit Monsieur" and handed him a 10dhm coin ($1.25). He stopped filling the wax paper bag and handed me the cookies and change of 5dhm. Still warm from the oven- soft and chewy with flavor of almond and a hint of perhaps annis. Everywhere we saw people selling baked goods- perhaps it was good that I had no other coins.  One couple we had met had suggested we go to Squala (as had the guide book and the hotel) and we continually asked directions. Everyone speaks French and many English. We were along the area of the commercial port and it was not attractive, more or less following the exterior of the Medina wall. Some of the group were again was nervous as it began to get dark.was dusk. Our directions however were perfect and we arrived at the Squala,  restaurant built into an 18th century fortified bastion. A rustic interior and delightful garden setting. We had a mixed appetizer platter with eggplant, lentils, spinach,  fish in red sauce (all which we spooned onto bread which was similar to a sesame bagel), and puff pasties filled with different meats and more tea (no alcohol served). We then walked another 5 minutes to Rick's Cafe  of Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman fame in the film Casablanca. As we had already eaten, we were only allowed to sit upstairs for a drink which was not as interesting so we returned to the hotel and collected the rest of the group for another dinner. Around the corner to "Le Rouget de L'isle", a restored villa with no sign. It was still early- 8pm and we were the only people there. The chef came out and spent some time explaining a huge chalkboard of specials. We wished we had not already eaten. Of course we managed to share amazing pan seared fois gras with carmelized onions and mushrooms, need tenderloin with port reduction sauce, carpaccio of sea bass, Lotte fish with "macaroni and cheese risotto" and duck confit, followed by chocolate lava cake and grand marnier soufflé, washed down with a Moroccan Cabernet. Modern decor complete with an artistic Christmas tree made of glass ornaments shaped like lightening bolts and doubles sided mirrors hung with red ribbon- quite unusual but I had left my camera (alias iPhone). Back at the hotel after dinner I considered the experience of the joy of the 7ft long bathtub. As much as this sounded relaxing, I opted for a quick shower and then into my little roll-away bed.