Marrakesh delights

Palais Amani - Fes- Christmas Eve

It was almost dark by the time we arrived, although we had been driving through "Nouvelle Fes" and along he walls of the medina walls (60 miles in total) for sometime. We eventually found the correct gate (there were originally only 7) and waited in a car park for someone from the hotel to fetch us. It ended up being very close, but would not have been possible or fine by ourselves. There are 8000 small alley type street- few signs, and as they are all in Arabic, one might say there are no signs.  Also no cars- donkeys bring EVERYTHING in and out. Forget using an umbrella (it did rain a bit yesterday and we heard that it was major flooding in Tangier), as  the passageways are not wide enough. Also everything is cobblestone so comfy and safe shoes a must. All women have at least a suni (head covering but you can see face) and some a seeii (covers entire face) and a jalaba (long robe with hood). Men also are wearing jalaba a or western dress(younger men).  Our hotel has only 14 rooms on 3 floors- an amazing restored Riad with huge interior courtyard with beautiful orange trees and other plantings. More mint tea and hot towels as we were welcomed and given a map etc. it turns out that there are now color coded route signs which a tourist can (attempt to) follow- a route for historic sites, for the tanneries, for the carpet sellers etc.  Our rooms were again very large with wonderful bathrooms (no tub but rain showers again. When we booked the rooms we had been told we would be obligated to dine at the hotel for Christmas Eve. Drinks and canapés 7-9 in a courtyard level common room where they set up a bar, as too chilly (it is 15C and drizzling now at 1130am and I am told was 5C at night but I thought warmer)  for the 3rd floor Terrance where there is a bar. We showered and "donned our gay apparel" as it approached 8pm. We enjoyed the other guests, Simon and his wife from London whom now have retired to Avignon, an American family from California with 3 daughters ages 17, 15 and 13, and an Indian couple now retired to Calgary Canada with their son who had just arrived from Japan ( he went to Harrow...). We made our way to the dining room at 915pm. Four hours and seven courses, and having gotten almost the entire hotel to join us to sing Christmas carols, we retired to bed.

Riad ksar ighnda

We arrived very late at our hotel- both due to leaving the desert late and the bad lunch service- there was also a "misunderstanding" about whether dinner was included or not/ Ali said we had to stop at the tour operations office which in the end was good as we each understood each other's position and they ended up taking us to dinner- a much more local place in the hotel they would have organized for us if we had not organized our own. Drivers and guides have their own room to eat and relax away from clients. The menus are all more or less the same but obviously always a bit different- we each have our thoughts as to which was the best tangine, salad (not what we call salad), bread, brochettes, cous cous. Our hotel (riad) was beautiful and had interesting little details such a magnificent curtain ties, silver hooks for towels made of Fatima's hand, shampoo and body wash holders of silver filafgree, and unusual  toilet paper holders. It was very windy and chilly. Julian and Niles needed a break from each other so Julian and I bunked together and Niles with the other ladies. Te other nights so far we have stayed as respective families. 

More Casablanca

Views from the hotel 

Taouriet Kasbah

While for centuries people from the Atlas, Draa and Dades valleys went to Ouarzazate to do business, the French established a messenger garrison town here in 1920 to oversea their colonial interests. The movie business took of after the French protectorate left in the 1950s and today it is often referre to a "Ouallywood". Ali Baba and the 40 thieves - 1920, Lawrence of Arabia, to the more recent Gladiator and Game of Thrones. Ali was great at explaining the ancient history - in the 11th century it was a major stopping point for caravans- there was a lookout point at the top - caravans used fire at night and silver reflecting in the sun to communicate how far away they were- each 5km. There was no formal market day as there later was (and still exists in many Towns around the world), as the market day occurred only when caravans came through. Niles and Julian are so sick of the ladies wanting to take photos and shop. We saw the best selection of interesting crafts and art today- this region is mostly the Berber people. 

Volubilis

The roman ruins of  Volubilis (an UNESCO world heritage site) are about 30km from Meknes and are located in was was then and still is today the fertile olive growing area. About half of the 40 hectares are excavated- it goes on and on- apparently 20,000 people lived in the city at its peak. Originally settled by the Carthaginian traders in the 3rd century BC and was one of the Roman Empires most remote outposts. Eventually abandoned around 280 AD when the neighboring Berber tribes asserted themselves, the remaining population of Berbers, Greeks, Syrians and Jews continued to speak Latin until the arrival of Islam. Volubilis continued to be inhabited until the 18th century when it's marble was stolen for the palaces of Moulay Ismail in Menkes and then the earthquake of 1755 took down the rest of the city. Again the contrast of the old and new- the remains of a Roman olive press and the "modern" merchant selling olives on the side of the road (see photos). 

Meknes

Julian and I decided to leave Fez for a day trip to Vouliabilis and Meknes, about an hour from Fes. The others enjoyed more shopping in the medina of Fes. The weather was overcast and sprinkling. After we got out of the city- traveling west towards Rabat (but a different road) we were in a beautiful fertile valley of olive groves and cedar trees. Meknes is another of the imperial cities, and after a real coffee (Ali explained that most hotels make it with instant powder not a machine) over looking the main plaza, we set off into the medina. Ali could not accompany us as he said that a driver could not be a tour guide. A mosque, palace and golf course later, we opted for lunch with Ali- as the sun had come out and we  enjoyed a mixed grill and couscous with poulet.